Remove the fuselage bottom from the foam sheet and get the shorter piece (150mm) of 7mm flat carbon fiber strip.
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Smear Foam-Tac onto both sides of the carbon fiber strip and slide it into the slot at the rear of the fuselage bottom.
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Remove the two nose doublers from the foam sheet.
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Smear glue on the nose doublers (make a left and a right) and stack them around the front of the fuselage bottom.
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Align the doubled tabs so they line up with the back edge of the fuselage bottom tabs and the curved bottom edge. Weight
the foam sandwich (I raid the pantry for canned goods) and set aside to dry.
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Remove the wing halves and KF wing doublers from the sheets. Smear foam-tac on one side of a wing doubler, being sure to
get all the way to the edge, and press it onto the wing half, aligning it at the leading edge and wing tip. Repeat the
process for the second wing half BEING SURE TO CREATE A LEFT AND RIGHT HALF. Weight the wings down and allow to
dry. See the next step to verify alignment.
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When the KF wing doublers are properly aligned, the notches in the root of the wing and doubler will line up as shown.
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Remove the rudder from it's foam sheet and cut the bevels in it and the rear of the fuselage making sure the sides match.
It doesn't matter which side it gets hinged on. Do not hinge the rudder at this time until the fuselage is installed
on the wing.
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Remove the elevons from the foam sheets and cut the bevels in them making a left and right elevon. The horn slot is
closest to the hinge edge.
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While waiting for the wing doublers to dry, now might be a good time to solder the bullet connectors onto
the motor wires.
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When the wing doublers have fully dried, cut the elevon hinge bevels. Cut them so the points are on the side away
from the doubler. Smearing a minimum amount of glue on the bevel points, hinge the elevons to the wing.
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Smear foam-tac on the root edge of the wing halves and press them together, aligning the wing spar slot. Find the
333mm flat 7mm carbon fiber wing spar, smear foam-tac on both sides and slide it into the spar slot. Set the wing
assembly aside to dry.
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When the wing is dry, put foam-tac on the edge of the fuselage bottom and insert the tabs into the wing slots from
the side with the KF double on it. Align the firewall notch with the notch on the front of the wing.
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Apply foam-tac on the edge of the fuselage top and insert the tabs into the wing slots from the top side. Adjust the
firewall area and match the rudder bevel at the opposide end. Take care for the fuselage top and bottom to be
perpendicular to the wing.
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Smearing a minimum amount of glue on the rudder bevel point, hinge the rudder to the rear of the fuselage.
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Apply foam-tac to the nose area and mount the firewall between the 4 notches so that it is perpendicular to the
fuselage and wing (no down or right thrust). Remove the 4 quarter circle gussets from the foam sheet and apply them
to the back of firewall along the top of the fuselage snug against the fuselage and firewall matching the curve of
the firewall. Use two gussets on each side (none are needed on the bottom fuselage due to the fuselage doublers).
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Find the control horn plywood sheet in the accessory baggie and remove them from the sheet. Spread glue on both sides
of the diagonal lines section of the bottom of the horns and glue them into the slots on the control surfaces on the
side opposite the bevels with the front of the horn even with the hinge line.
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The airframe is now complete. If you are going to paint it, this is the time to avoid getting any on the electronics.
If you do paint it, use very light coats as EPP is a sponge and you can add a lot of weight very quickly. This is also
a good time to go over all the joints and make sure the glue is solid. Also check both sides of all the spars as
sometimes putting a spar into the slot can wipe the glue off as it slides in and the bottom has less glue. Once you are
done with any gluing and painting, continue on with the electronics installation.
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Glue the three 9g servos into the precut holes. Make sure you mount the rudder servo so the output shaft is on the same
side as the horn. Mount the servos so the output shaft is on the forward side of the holes to give more length to the
servo connections. Take the plug from the elevon servo on the side with the rudder horn and feed it through the cable hole
in the fuselage bottom.
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Screw the motor or motor mount (depending on which power system you bought) onto the firewall so the motor mounts with the
wires on the side of the fuselage bottom opposite the servo wires. I generally use the screws from the servo accessory bags
to attach this.
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Attach the servo extension to the ESC and shrink the provided heatshrink over the connectors to secure them. Run the servo
extension down the fuselage and pass it through the cable hole in the fuselage bottom so it is on the same side as the servo
connectors. This will put the battery connector on the side opposite the Rx allowing for more velcro to adjust the CG by
moving the battery front to back.
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Find the single sided servo arms in the packages of servo accessories
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Measure the 3 carbon fiber pushrods to be 1/2" smaller than the distance from the servo arm screw to the surface hinge line
at the control horn. Be aware that the elevon and rudder pushrods are different lengths.
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Attach the z-bend wires to the two ends using the small pieces of heatshrink tubing. The z-bend wires and heatshrink are
in the small parts baggie. Shrink the heatshrink in place to hold the wires but DO NOT GLUE THEM AT THIS TIME.
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Put the z-bends of the pushrods through the top hole on the horns and then through the outer holes on the servo arms.
Attach the servo arm on the elevon servo and adjust it so it is aligned straight across, perpendicular to the fuselage.
Now adjust the control surface so it is level by sliding the wires under the heatshrink tubing. Continue for the other
elevon and rudder pushrods. Once you have everything perfectly aligned, glue the wires to the carbon fiber using
cyanoacrylate glue being careful to not glue them to the plywood horns.
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Plug all the controls into your receiver of choice and bind to a fresh model with a delta wing mode selected on your
transmitter using an appropriate flight battery. Make sure all your trims are centered and no subtrims are set. Verify
all the servos are moving in the correct direction and reverse as needed. Move the servo arms so they are as perpendicular
to the fuselage as possible (servos are always half a spline off) and adjust it to be perfect using the subtrim settings
on your transmitter. As you finish each control, put the servo screw in place. Attach a prop to the motor with the
propsaver o-ring and while holding the model at a safe distance, blip the throttle to see if the motor is turning the
correct way (pulling the plane forward) and if it is backwards, swap any two ESC/motor wires to reverse it. Adjust the
control throws and exponential as you like. Unplug the flight battery and turn off the transmitter. Your plane is now
set up. Using velcro and cable ties, neaten up the wires. I put a longer piece of velcro for the battery on the ESC side
of the fuselage so you can move the battery front to back for balance. The CG of the plane is where the KF wing doubler
meets the fuselage.
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