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Remove the pieces from the sheets to assemble the subassemblies shown above. Glue the fuselage top (A1+ A2),
the fuselage bottom (B1 + B2), and two sets of wing doublers (E1 + F1) and (E2 + F2). Glue the 500mm flat
carbon fiber strips into the precut slot along the leading edge of E1/F1. Glue the two firewalls together
crossgrain, matching the notches.
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If you are using the landing gear, attach the plywood to the front fuselage bottom (B1) matching the passthrough
holes. Make sure it doesn't protrude above the top edge
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Grab the C1 and D1 main deck pieces of the wing and glue them together on the center seam, aligning the spar slot.
Glue the 380mm flat carbon fiber spar into that slot.
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Once the glue sets, bevel the elevons (F3) and glue them in place. This is easier now than after the doublers are
added to the wing. You'll want to use your cork-backed ruler to help make the 45 degree bevel cut from the top of each
elevon - be sure that you cut the bevel on the long side closest to the slot for the elevon control horn. We suggest
using FoamTac to make the hinge.
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Glue the 4 (E3) joiners into the front of the C1/D1 main deck so the small tabs stick up and down.
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When the fuselage is dry, cut the bevels for the rudder hinge (doesn't matter which side the hinge is on) making
sure they match but don't glue the rudder hinge at this point. (just easier to cut the bevels unattached to the
plane)
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Assemble the lite plywood leading edge jig.
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Raise the leading edge of the E1/F1 doublers on the jig. Glue the center joint together so that the center joint
is touching the building surface in this configuration (doubler should have a slight angle in the middle). Glue the
120mm carbon fiber spar in the slot while the joint is still drying.
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Place scrap 9mm EPP under the main deck to raise it up and glue the tabs of the joiners into the corresponding
slots in the E1/F1 doublers. Spread glue on the overlap section and adjust the deck so the center seams match.
Put marks on the leading edge of the doubler at the 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 marks for rib positioning.
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Gather the ribs (C2 & D2) from the 9mm sheet and sort them into two groups of 5. Glue the longest one along each side of
the doubler center seam. Glue the two smallest ones along the edge of the doubler tips. Glue the medium ones into the
center notch on the main deck and so it matches the 1/2 mark on the doubler leading edge. Finally glue the smaller
ones of the two remaining into the outboard notches and the 3/4 marks. The final ribs glue into the center seam corner
with the tip going to the 1/4 mark on the doubler. Let the glue dry.
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Spread glue on top of all the ribs and the leading edge as well as the top front of the main deck (do one wing half
at a time) and then place the E2/F2 doubler in place using the joiner tabs for alignment. Do the same with the second
E2/F2 doubler including the center doubler joint. Pin all the glue joints so they stay intact. Let the glue set before
proceeding to the fuselage.
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Keeping the main deck supported with scrap foam, smear glue on the bottom edge of the fuselage top (A1/A2) and position
it in the slots of the wing assembly. Note the tab at the back of the doubler is positioned against the doubler and the
rear tab is against the rear of the main wing deck. Make sure the fuselage is perpendicular to the wing (you can use the
square edge of the plywood horn sheet to verify it being vertical). This fuselage top glues onto the side of the main
wing deck with the elevon hinges. The elevon bevels are on the bottom.
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When the glue has set enough, smear glue on the fuselage bottom (B1/B2) and matching the tabs to the slots, join it
to the assembly. Again make sure the fuselage is perpendicular to the wing. When this is set up enough to handle
you can hinge the rudder to the fuselage rear, matching the top edge. Also take the firewall and glue it into the
notches on the nose, noticing that there are 15mm notches for the vertical and 18mm notches to match the front of
the wing. Make sure this is straight to the center axis. You don't want any thrust offset.
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Regularly go back and press the fuselage halves together to get a good glue joint to the wing. When the firewall
has dried, glue two gussets to the each fuselage corner and the firewall on each quadrant to provide additional
firewall support. Be aware the gussets aren't symmetrical. One straight side is 3mm larger to match the firewall.
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The airframe is now complete. If you are going to paint it, this is the time to avoid getting any on the electronics.
If you do paint it, use very light coats as EPP is a sponge and you can add a lot of weight very quickly. This is also
a good time to go over all the joints and make sure the glue is solid. Also check both sides of all the spars as
sometimes putting a spar into the slot can wipe the glue off as it slides in and the bottom has less glue. Once you are
done with any gluing and painting, continue on with the electronics installation.
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Find the plywood control horn sheet and remove the 3 horns. Notice that one of them is taller than the other two.
This is for the 15mm thick rudder. I recommend you install this one first to avoid it being installed in the wrong
slot. I find spreading glue on both sides of the horns and squeezing some into the horn slots
gives a strong attachment. The front ear of the horn should match the hinge joint so the pushrod holes line up
over the hinge for optimum geometry. Install the other horns in the same manner. All horns mount on the top
surface with the Rudder horn installed on the opposite side from the bevel.
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Install the servos in the precut holes so the wires exit towards the front. Install the rudder servo on the side
with the rudder control horn installed.
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Screw the motor onto the firewall with the supplied screws so the motor mounts with the
wires on the side of the fuselage bottom opposite the servo wires.
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Attach the servo extension to the ESC and shrink the provided heatshrink over the connectors to secure them. Run the servo
extension down the bottom of the fuselage and pass it through the cable hole in the fuselage so it is on the same side as
the servo connectors. This will put the battery connector on the side opposite the Rx allowing for more velcro to adjust the
CG by moving the battery front to back.
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Find the single sided servo arms in the packages of servo accessories
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Measure the 3 carbon fiber pushrods to be 1/2" smaller than the distance from the servo arm screw to the surface hinge line
at the control horn. Be aware that the elevon and rudder pushrods are different lengths.
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Attach the z-bend wires to the two ends using the small pieces of heatshrink tubing. The z-bend wires and heatshrink are
in the small parts baggie. Shrink the heatshrink in place to hold the wires but DO NOT GLUE THEM AT THIS TIME.
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Put the z-bends of the pushrods through the top hole on the horns and then through the outer holes on the servo arms.
Attach the servo arm on the elevon servo and adjust it so it is aligned straight across, perpendicular to the fuselage.
Now adjust the control surface so it is level by sliding the wires under the heatshrink tubing. Continue for the other
elevon and rudder pushrods. Once you have everything perfectly aligned, glue the wires to the carbon fiber using
cyanoacrylate glue being careful to not glue them to the plywood horns.
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Plug all the controls into your receiver of choice and bind to a fresh model with a delta wing mode selected on your
transmitter using an appropriate flight battery. Make sure all your trims are centered and no subtrims are set. Verify
all the servos are moving in the correct direction and reverse as needed. Move the servo arms so they are as perpendicular
to the fuselage as possible (servos are always half a spline off) and adjust it to be perfect using the subtrim settings
on your transmitter. As you finish each control, put the servo screw in place. Bolt a prop to the motor
and while holding the model at a safe distance, blip the throttle to see if the motor is turning the
correct way (pulling the plane forward) and if it is backwards, swap any two ESC/motor wires to reverse it. Adjust the
control throws and exponential as you like. Unplug the flight battery and turn off the transmitter. Your plane is now
set up. Using velcro and cable ties, neaten up the wires. I put a longer piece of velcro for the battery on the ESC side
of the fuselage so you can move the battery front to back for balance. The CG of the plane is where the KF wing doubler
meets the fuselage.
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Go Fly!!
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